2019-2020 Collection Karl Lagerfeld’s Swansong
The world of fashion bid goodbye to one of its illustrious luminaries in February, when Karl Lagerfeld passed on. A maverick designer, who was the creative spearhead at Fendi for more than half a century till his death, Karl was instrumental in establishing Fendi’s stature as an iconic high fashion label.
The FENDI Women’s Fall/Winter 2019-2020 Collection is the final Collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld, representing a lifetime of dedication and creation from 1965 until today. In his perpetual search for beauty and innovation, Karl’s commitment to his craft never waned. This Collection embodies that devotion, from the season’s defining sketches to his ultimate FENDI gesture: the romantic trace of a silk foulard. Reflected in a multitude of ideas, each expression is innately and forever his own.
Eternally forward-looking, the silhouette is triumphant in its depth and majestic in its simplicity. Trompe l’oeil – an enduring signature – defines fabrications with an opulent hand, as architectural planes are shot through with an irresistible lightness. Neutral tones lift through pale ivory tulle, warm cognac patent and terracotta calfskin to sublime shades of daffodil, sea green, tangerine and azure. Like petals or plumes, wallpaper prints become textures on cloque, organza and satin.
Drawn from a pagoda shoulder, zipped and double-breasted tailoring is nipped at the waist and threaded with floating bow belts. In cotton poplin and fine leather, pointed shirt collars button high in Karl’s inimitable style. Worn with full pleated trousers, jacket pockets and asymmetric lapels are outlined in a slick shadow play. Diamond shapes abound in the shifting lines of transparency, pleating and latticework transposed, one over the other, as wrap knife-pleated skirts, monogram tulle bodysuits and laser cut leather outerwear. Designed in 1981, Karl’s curling ‘Karligraphy’ FF logo monogram appears on cabochon buttons and intarsia fur, as high-collared shift dresses whisper softly in diaphanous silk and honeycomb lace.
The FENDI Women’s Fall/Winter 2019-2020 Accessories Collection abounds with newness, as the Baguette is transformed in embossed pillow patent, topstitched vegetal leather and a multi-strap utility harness. A spacious metal frame tote in shiny calf or Pequin stripe shearling folds into a clutch, as the Peekaboo echoes the season’s perforated techniques. Squareheeled flats or pointed high-heel boots in shiny neoprene and scrolling knitted neoprene continue the season’s shadow motif with a contrast sole and zipper.
The bond between Karl Lagerfeld and FENDI is fashion’s longest love story, one that will continue to touch our lives for years to come. I am profoundly saddened by his passing and deeply touched by his constant care and perseverance until the very end. When we called just a few days before the show, his only thoughts were on the richness and beauty of the Collection. It’s a true testament to his character. He shall be so missed.
– Silvia Venturini Fendi